Brake shoe positions
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Brake shoe positions
Starting to mount the new shoes on the TC and I can't find my position diagram for the shoes.
By memory I think that on the left side the rear most shoe should be on top at the pivot
The right side should have the front shoe to top at the pivot.
In all cases the shoe with the "step down" is first on the post and the "step up" is last on the post.
Does this sound correct?
By memory I think that on the left side the rear most shoe should be on top at the pivot
The right side should have the front shoe to top at the pivot.
In all cases the shoe with the "step down" is first on the post and the "step up" is last on the post.
Does this sound correct?
Dave '46 TC 0524
- Mark McCombs
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Re: Brake shoe positions
I would check Norms rebuild blog (search for Frenchblatting) to find it. There is a whole section on the brake installation.
Re: Brake shoe positions
Having just rebuilt my brakes I can confirm that the shoes will only fit one way round and that it does change from one side to the other. The important thing, which isn’t mentioned in any of the workshop manuals, etc, is that the spring like Thackeray washer must be on the inside between the backplate and the shoes. The horseshoe clip then goes outside of the outermost shoe. I’d recommend using new horseshoe clips.
TC2190 / XPAG1098 (originally 2745).
Re: Brake shoe positions
Search online for images of 'MG TC brakes' - you'll find lots of pictures like this....
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Re: Brake shoe positions
Thanks everyone. I found my notes and got all shoes mounted. All new cylinders as well. Only issue so far is a persistent dampness at the left front. I'm still trying to determine if its at the hose connection or at the bleeder. I'm using speedbleeders so they should already have thread sealant.
Dave '46 TC 0524
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Brake shoe positions
The sealant only matters when the bleeder is loose. When tightened, it's the taper at the tip that does the sealing.
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Re: Brake shoe positions
You're right but something is going on. The speed bleeders have a sealant applied to, I assume, prevent air from being sucked back in. My problem must be that the tapers of the wheel cylinder and speed bleeder are a bit wrong. I was having a wetness on my finger with the speed bleeders that went away when I put the standard bleeders.
This is only happening on the front. The rear speed bleeders seem to be OK but can I trust them? I may just go back to standard and use the MityVac.
This is with Classic Gold wheel cylinders and Speed Bleeder brand bleeders.
This is only happening on the front. The rear speed bleeders seem to be OK but can I trust them? I may just go back to standard and use the MityVac.
This is with Classic Gold wheel cylinders and Speed Bleeder brand bleeders.
Dave '46 TC 0524
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Brake shoe positions
I suppose you could compare the angle of the taper on the speed bleeders with the originals. Since it's only the one corner, maybe also try swapping the bleeders left to right to see if the leak follows.
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Re: Brake shoe positions
It appears that I was premature in stating that the wetness was just on the left side. Found the right was also wet but not as much as the left. Replaced the speed bleeder with standard and back to dry.
Also have a new left side hard line and hose coming from AS. The hose to hardline joint will not stop weeping and the fitting is as tight as I dare. I've already tried my spare hose with no improvement.
The last time I completely redid the brakes was 20 years ago and wasn't nearly the pita it is this time.
Also have a new left side hard line and hose coming from AS. The hose to hardline joint will not stop weeping and the fitting is as tight as I dare. I've already tried my spare hose with no improvement.
The last time I completely redid the brakes was 20 years ago and wasn't nearly the pita it is this time.
Dave '46 TC 0524