MG TA1932 in Germany - Blog - all problems and ...

[Franz Tenbrock]

Thanks Steve
now one other important step
dismanteling the brake cylinders
one was a little bit hard to dismantel, so really good that i have done it now
now all off them are looking like new, all pistons are ok
the rubbers looks ok, but i have new one, so i will change all
the garage is cleaned up for the next step
made an order at Brown and Gammons for the steering, peg, sector some shims and a seal for the sector
tomorrow i will make some pictures, paint the frame
a friend visit me with a clock to take a measurment on the worm, i hope we will do it right
a little bit easyer if you do such things the second time, have done it with my YA last year, so i knew how to do it
and with the help here, its fun and much more easyer then 15 years ago without any forum
Thanks to you, my TA thanks too

[Duncan M]

Carl-
A stock and un-modified TC steering box requires NO machining to take the rubber seal Steve mentioned-- National #240735.

[Franz Tenbrock]

Today first painting from the egine to the back
Also i prepared the brake cylinders wirh the new rubber, works perfect
Also cleaned the Brass parts and some others parts
Have to clean the garage again, thus dort horrible.
Will see what kind of seal Brown and gammons will sent me.
One more paint tomorrow, before i can put all together again

[Franz Tenbrock]

time to search the web

left rear brake was wet, first i thought it is break fluid, but all cylinder and rubber was ok
so oil ?!

what tool do you use to open the nut there ?
someone with experience with this part ?

also i have to change the gearbox mounting, left side jelly, right side much better
i should not go under the car

[Steve Simmons]

Do you have the original nuts or the hex nuts in your photo? The hex nuts take a 2" socket. The original nuts can be removed with a hammer and chisel. The aftermarket nuts with seals in them as you picture above are highly recommended to stop oil leaks.

[Franz Tenbrock]

Should have opend it before
Here a picture
Need a new paper seal
Modern nut with sleeve inside

[Steve Simmons]

If you install the modern nuts with rubber seals, you should also replace the bearings with a sealed type, as no more gear oil will get to them. Either that, or make it a point to grease them now and then.

[Franz Tenbrock]

first i have to understand all of it
just found this here
https://www.limora.com/de/messingbuchse/23432/
this part is in it
look to the picture
the halfshaft is nearly polished at the end where the brass sleeve it sitting

I will replace the bearing here with this one:
1 piece SKF deep groove ball bearing 6208-2RS1 40x80x18 mm ball bearing 6208 2RS.

will order a socket to open it without a hammer, hate it grrrr

the frame is now clean and painted, glossy black

the modern shock is out of the car, will replace it with Andre Hardford, looks better than this modern stuff

the sector is on the way to germany, i should have orderd at Andy King ...


have seen this here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRcYVlictwM


need some more parts, more expensive all, but the car should be secure

[Steve Simmons]

If you put in the nuts with rubber seals then you do not need the brass bushings. You can remove the old ones from the axle if desired.

If you have standard splined axles then you will need sleeves for the seals to ride on. The sleeve covers the splines to give the seal a smooth surface.

If you have modern tapered axles then you will only need the sleeves if the seal has a larger ID than the OD of the axle. If the seal and axle are the same size, then no seal is needed so long as the axle is polished where the seal will be.

Note that the rubber seal I'm talking about is inside the large nut, not the dust seal on the back of the bearing carrier.

[Duncan M]

Franz-
A common mistake regarding the rear bearing is to simply re-assemble as it was taken apart. The paper "gasket" is more than a gasket. Really it is a shim. The rear bearing "clamp up" must be very precise. When the car left the factory it very likely had a paper gasket. Through wear and tear on the rear bearing carrier, the need for a paper shim may no longer exist. Best to check for a gap with the paper removed. A schematic diagram to reference is here in this wordy article from ttypes.org here: https://ttypes.org/the-mg-tc-rear-axle/

If the carrier is excessivly worn, it may even require shimming to the outer race of the bearing. As noted in the schematic. Or replacement of carrier.

FTFU tech tip references .004 inch in items 16, 17 and 18. here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0270/ ... 1652107280

The design of the TA diff is quite similar to the TC, is it not?

Good luck-

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hi
thanks for all the help i got here

have done the job some days ago ;-)
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... 68/page-27

bearing, 2" Socket and some more ordered
will come next year

all a good wish, health, peace and luck for 2023
Regards
Franz

[Franz Tenbrock]

what shoud i do waiting for the new year
i went to the garage

taken off the last parts from the stearing
found 3 new tie rod ends

found a tool to get the old one out
then i made it hot with a flame to loosen the nuts

all tie rod ends including the ball where ok, but i will take the new ones

now all cleaned, waiting for new paintig
now waiting for ordered parts

last work for this year

[cdrolshagen]

FRanz,
pay attantion, two different tie rod are fitted to a car, look very same, but different
cheers Carl

[Franz Tenbrock]

ok !
only the one on the drop arm is different, i have noticed it

have made a illustration of it, a little bit different as Jim Buell has illustrated it
and now i understand it,

the arrows are not the same as the words...


i hope i am right
and i found, in the past there was a mistake on my car
.
i have 3 old but good track rod ends and 3 new = 6

but only one drop arm end

if you look here:
https://mgbits.com/contents/en-uk/p6052 ... nd-LH.html
and look to the
track rod + Drag link part
the spring is inside not outside
confused

if you turn left or right, on side should be solid the other spring as i understood it
but if the spring is one side in and one side out, you have solid solid and spring spring...

[Franz Tenbrock]

so another mistake in the past with a big impact
no wonder there were so many track rods in the box
always wrong ones
spring again spring does not work
i think nor only my car has this problem ;-)

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hello again
totally confused,
just read this article in ttype.org
https://ttypes.org/tc-steering-understa ... ssemblies/
there Doug Pelton an MG specialist explains
"There are 4 end assemblies here. 3 tie rod ends and 1 steering arm end"
"The tie rod ends (TRE) have a cross slot (X) in the end adjustment plug. The tie rod end (DLE) has only a single slot. "

So the DLE has the spring on the outside, inside the hard part near the rod.
So if you want to go left, the force goes from the DLE to the spring (outside) and from the TRE to the spring (inside).
if you want to drive to the right, the force from the lower link goes to the hard part on the outside and also to the hard part
that was how my car was put together
but as I understand the construction it should always be one side hard one side spring
is there a mistake in the article
". It is not uncommon to find it wrong, which has created many of the problems mentioned above."

there is one other article here:
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/Buell-TC ... 3rd-ed.pdf

there is a little but i think important picture, i have it in my picture above too
side: 12 left sinde down

the little picture showes the forces on the ball, but the arrows are not the same directions, if you change it so that all arrows has the same diretion and also change the position of the text, then it is clear what he explain,
as i have written as i understand the function, alway one side hard one side spring
otherwise you have one side hard hard and the other spring spring so really soft

Jim buel wrote on side 12 above the littel picture
"If standard track rod ends are
used on both ends of the drop arm,
movement would be transmitted either
through two springs or no springs
depending on the direction of the turn."

this is not right too, if you have on both sides of the drag rod a TRE assembly it is ok too, make a picture with MS Paint and you see it, today it is easy with paint to swap the pictures and then it is clear - sorry confused
if Jim has made the arrows in the picture for left turn right it is clear in the moment
???????????????????????????


see my picture above

[cdrolshagen]

Good Morning Franz,
happy new year...........
why confused what is the correct fitting of the different adjustable rod ends.
Check original spare part list!bc
The spare part list of my J2 and L2 shows 4 different numbers for these rod ends,
must mention, all ball pins on MMM MGs have parallel fitting
different to T-Types is that the ball pin fitting at the steering gear box side has a taper fit.
Now check the original T-Type spare part list,
here also shown 4 different part numbers for these rod ends.
Cheers Carl

[Franz Tenbrock]

Sorry
Look what they did to the steering of my car in the past
taken off the DLE

the ball could not turn, the screw was so tight that there was no play, nothing
was hard to open
and what I found you can see on the picture

the ball has the shoulder so it is not possible to take it out as it should be
can't fall out because on the other side, didn't get it out at the moment is also a spring
outside there was a broken spring, i think the other part is still in it

So it was good that I took the time to remove the steering.
The previous owner was a technician
I don't know who did it but it was wrong everywhere I looked.

So I want to understand how exactly it works,

Jim buel wrote:
ball solid rod spring ball
ball spring rod solid ball

i hope my picture now is ok, have some arrows where the force is working
sorry so easy but also so difficult

so the part near the wheel should have the spring inside, so it is a TRE as Dould described it

the DLE is not correct in my car, damaged, with a broken spring, perhaps on both sides...
so again a part i have to change,
but i have 3 TRE in good condition over

[Franz Tenbrock]

i hate it if i don t understand it
i hate it if i can t get parts out
so
now it is out
and as i thought the other half broken spring was on the other side
i made 2 pictures
one with the broken springs on both sides, no play nothing, wasn t possible to turn the ball anywhere

the difference betwenn DLE and TRE is, the DLE has outside a langer part, red arrow in picture, so it is possible to put in the spring there, needs some more place

i have some springs left from the 3 TRE, i will take one to use it in the DLE, but this time in the correct position
it should be thigtend so hard that it is possible to turn the ball a little bit
or

[Steve Simmons]

This is the order for the rod end assemblies. The three tie rods are on top and the drag link on bottom.