MG TA1932 in Germany - Blog - all problems and ...

[Duncan M]

Looks like Franz shows one good spring, and another spring broken into two pieces.

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hi
good luck for 2023

the second picture shows how it was previously assembled
half of the broken spring to the left of the ball, the other half to the right and the screw was so tight that no movement was possible

[Franz Tenbrock]

Time to do something else
I built a bracket for Andrew Hartford shocks
5mm steel, strong enough I think
I use the original holes
I don't like the modern shock absorbers
so I will try these vintage shock absorbers
no problem to change back
I also found a new problem
the shock mounting plate had a small crack at the hole ( outside + front )
I think the stress from the modern shock absorber
have you seen this before ?
can i weld it ? wouldn t do it myself, would give it to a professional
good that I am working on the car

so more and more parts i have to order
but also a lot of parts looking really good for the time

[Steve Simmons]

I haven't seen that crack before, but it will be easy to weld. Just remove the paint from both sides, weld it up and then grind smooth again.

[Franz Tenbrock]

have the same problems with the banjos as Tim Parrot, ordered octagon Club
the thread is too short

look here too:
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... g.4600729/

I think the new banjos have a longer thread, so there is no problem.
what to do now,

I can cut away the folded part, take the old thread and refold it.

did you fold it twice the way they do it today?

luckily I have the tool for that

alternatively you could cut off the fold and then take the new fitting and remove the smooth part before the thread on the lathe
and then of course fold it again

unfortunately new banjos are really expensive

one other problem is the rear brake hose, wrong part for my TA
have some time left for all the work

the long part of the brake line left side to the front is in the car, like original, was easyer then i thought
also i installed all parts in the back and the exhaust

good run i think

perhaps i will install a tompkins Set to the steering, easyer to adjust, the new sector will be ok with it

[Franz Tenbrock]

next step forward,
I prepared the brake tubes as I described above.
clamped in the lathe, then cut off the smooth edge then cut to 45 degrees with a drill.
was no problem and easy to do,

some pictures to explain
maybe someone can use it

now more threads to tighten
it is double folded and works perfect (i hope so)

[Franz Tenbrock]

next step, install it in the back.
first i bed it near by the banjo
then i fixed it at the brake plate with the banjo
and bend it step by step to the middle

[Steve Simmons]

I seem to recall that single flare was original but it's been a while since I made new lines from scratch. I don't see why double wouldn't work though.

[Franz Tenbrock]

last step for today, the break master cylinder
had a problem with the circlip , both ends was broken, so it was not possible to get it out in the normal way
took a dremel with a tool and cut it in the middle, then i could brake it out
opened the master, all rubbers looks good, but i have new one, so i changed all
then i cleaned the inside of the cylinder.
now i have to order a new circlip

i haven t open the left side of the master, i think the rubber with the red arrow will come there, have to look for
all rubber parts have been so good, and the thread there looks not so good,

have to look in the web for the heat shield, i think easy to produce for me

[Steve Simmons]

The rubber piece goes on the other side, under the RPV. If the rear extension does not leak then I would leave it alone.

[Franz Tenbrock]

THX, not assembeled 100% , waiting for the circlip
one THX, not 100% assembled yet, waiting for the circlip.

one question

i can buy a box for the master cylinder
is this for heat or for damage by stones

but easy to do

if it is only to be a separator between the exhaust pipe and the cylinder,
can't you just screw a bent sheet of metal under the wooden floor?

[Duncan M]

The box is billed as being a heat shield. It contains an asbestos sheet insulator on the side near the exhaust. I have seen several T types for sale recently with the box entirely omitted, which I think is a poor idea for the reason you mention about stones, etc. I run my TC with the box, but no asbestos sheet. It does not seem to get warm, even on lengthy drives.
Pictures of box-
https://fromtheframeup.com/search?type= ... at*+shield*

[Franz Tenbrock]

got a picture from Carl, now I know how to install it,

solved another problem, found the circlip, ordered it, and was in the package I got
was so small I didn't see it.
Sorry Carl

now the master cylinder is assembled and it works perfectly

the rear left bearing came out easily, the old bearing was funny
one side open the other side closed,
My new nut fits perfectly to press the new bearing in.

I found two holes in the bracket at the back of the master cylinder, where the mounting bolts should be
there is a thread and i found a screw to fix it there

the new sector is 19,10 mm wide one is 19,05 and the other 19,0,
the new one will not fit in one of my steering

have read something how the old steering has to be prepared, have to sear for this information in the evening
i remeber not to hone it, don t know why,,,
i will find a solution

[Steve Simmons]

Some of our suppliers have decided that making oversized sector shafts is a good idea because of worn steering boxes. This makes no sense to me. First off, they are assuming that everyone's box is worn, and worn exactly the same amount. If the box is worn, it should be bushed back to standard. Anything else is just guessing. And for those with boxes that aren't worn, you can't use the sector without boring the box out larger and that's ridiculous. Just my opinion of course.

[Franz Tenbrock]

there are 2 holes in the back mounting where the BMC box must be installed
found a screw what i can use there - again a step forward

now it is as it is with the sector

my own old steering has some brass bushing in it, at the other end there are roller bearings, the new sector will fit this bearings
so i have to cut only the perhaps 4 cm of the brass bush
first i have to press it out some pictures some posts before
also i have to make some little changing to the edge

the other steering has no bushing inside, i think only 0,05 mm undersize
the sector from this steering is ok, have checked it, no play inside, so i woould assemble it as it was before.

my old one with the welded sector can t be installed like it is

i found such a tool in the bay

https://www.ebay.de/itm/255426365354?_t ... %3A2047675

my own lathe is a cheap thing from china , but my friend has a high professional lathe and konws how to work with

what would you do ?

[Steve Simmons]

You would need a pilot to ensure the tool starts cutting straight. Probably best done on a mill in my opinion but if you're careful then it could work.

[Franz Tenbrock]

just got the information from a friend that he have all this tools to do it
i will meet him at the weekend (i hope so)
will make the sheet for the BMC
also i am looking for a Tompkins set

[Franz Tenbrock]

in the morning i built the box for the BMC
first I took a drawing with all the dimensions and enlarged it that way
so that the printout on paper is exactly the right size.

took some sheet metal and cut it out with the side cutter
then i bent it step by step and welded it together
finally I added some paint
I have summarised the individual steps in the pdf

have now to wait for the paint
and drill some holes to fix it

in case.pdf at the end there are a lot of pictures, step by step making a box

[Franz Tenbrock]

grrrr

another problem

left side now has a closed new bearing
fixed it with threadlocker in the bearing bracket
don't need washers because 13,2 mm on both sides
I am satisfied with this
I went to the other side and wanted to pull out the stub axle.
I pulled on the wing nut and wiggled it, the stub axle came out about 4 cm but when I look under the wing bolt I see that the stub axle come out here but not out of the axle.

whats that
have i made a mistake
the other side i can pull the stub in and out without any problems

what can i do

[Franz Tenbrock]

yes
with a puller I got the wheel holder off
but the half-shaft is still in there
I can move it about 1.5 cm in and out, very slightly back and forth.
but then a soft stop falls
it's not a hard stop I also have the feeling that it's near the brake disc.
Is it this brass bush that also sits on the other side?
as long as the half shaft is not defective, it doesn't matter...