TC Rear Wheel Bearings

[JonnyP]

Hi all,
I need to change my rear wheel bearings and want to fit sealed bearings. Can anybody tell me the correct inside/outside/width dimensions please, or maybe bearing reference numbers that you know work so I can source some?

Many thanks

[antijam]

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[ROGER FURNEAUX]

hi Jonny - they were originally Ransome & Marles heavy-duty bearings with 12 balls in a brass cage, unsealed, now obsolete.

For years people used 6208 (same size, 80x40x18mm), usually unsealed and very cheap. However, they only have 8 or 9 balls and often fail. A better alternative is the BL208 or M208 ("max-load") which have 12 balls as original. I stock these with two metal shields (add ZZ to the p/n). They have just gone up, and are now £40 vs. £15 (even cheaper available) for 6208.

The racers used to put double-row brgs in, but they are 23mm wide so the hubs have to be shortened, and they is no space for the tab washers (a grub-screw inone of the brg. nut flats instead)

Roger
TC0978

[Duncan M]

Go with the much better quality 6208-2RSJ (made in USA). You often get what you pay for in bearings. People on British car and motorcycle forums have been anti- SKF "Explorer" (plain old) wheel bearings for a long time. Interesting to note that SKF also makes some super high quality specialty bearings under the Explorer name.

SKF 6208-2RSJ is a $65 bearing
SKF 6208-2RS1 is a $20 bearing (explorer line)

[Franz Tenbrock]

just done it ;-)
one side it was difficult to get the hub out
llo to my blog

[Steve Simmons]

The best bearing you can buy is BL208Z. It's the same dimensions as a 6208 but is a heavy duty version with more bearings (usually 10 or 12) with a metal outer shield. It's also a correct deep groove bearing, made to handle side loads. It should last the life of the car and will do a better job while it's there.

Also available with double metal shields (as BL208ZZ) and I believe with tight clearance, but neither is really necessary in my opinion.

[JonnyP]

hi Jonny - they were originally Ransome & Marles heavy-duty bearings with 12 balls in a brass cage, unsealed, now obsolete.

For years people used 6208 (same size, 80x40x18mm), usually unsealed and very cheap. However, they only have 8 or 9 balls and often fail. A better alternative is the BL208 or M208 ("max-load") which have 12 balls as original. I stock these with two metal shields (add ZZ to the p/n). They have just gone up, and are now £40 vs. £15 (even cheaper available) for 6208.

The racers used to put double-row brgs in, but they are 23mm wide so the hubs have to be shortened, and they is no space for the tab washers (a grub-screw inone of the brg. nut flats instead)

Roger
TC0978

Hi Roger, you and I have exchanged emails on this around a week ago, but my subsequent emails have gone unanswered, so I guess something has gone wrong somewhere? Still keen to buy some parts if we can re-establish contact.

[JonnyP]

Thanks all for the help, much appreciated.

[Duncan M]

All the single row bearings here are deep groove. If something requires extreme sideloading protection then you would go with double row angular contact bearings, like on the pinion shaft. Double row angular contact ball bearings are far superior to stacked deep grove ball bearings for side loading. The two row angular contact bearings provide for a lot of side loading in either direction, and come in various "angles" to fit a known amount of side loading. The stacked deep groove ball bearings provide for some side loading in either direction, just like a single row deep groove bearing provides some side loading in either direction.

Just counting balls in a ball bearing is not an indicator of its quality or longevity or speed rating, and (more balls) does not increase side load capabilities.

[Steve Simmons]

I've never seen anyone use angular bearings in the rear axle, probably because it wouldn't fit without modifying the parts. Never tried, so I can't say what would be necessary.

The BL208Z is a heavy duty bearing, stronger and more durable than the standard 6208. They have been used by many enthusiasts in TC axles for decades. They cost more, but in my opinion they're worth it if you drive the car a lot. The standard bearing is fine, but the 208 is better.

You can buy the 208 from a couple of the usual TC parts suppliers, or visit your local bearing house. I bought mine from King Bearing in Los Angeles. As I recall they were about $65 each, which was a pretty good price for a high-end name brand version.

[Duncan M]

Roger mentioned the double row bearing some racers have used, as well as the modifications required.

I was surprised to recieve the SKF 6208-RSJ bearings from Moss around 10 years ago, as their cost probably exceeded what they were charging for them at the time. Now they appear to be selling 6208 rear wheel bearings with no seals of any sort.

When I put in the SKF bearings 10 years ago, I took out some angular contact (3208) bearings that had been in the car 50 or 60 years. They appear to be in pristine condition, and I was able to continue using the original hubs. I expect the factory original rear bearings were also angular contact.

[Steve Simmons]

Yeah I've heard of racers using them, but never seen one in a standard TC. As far as I know, the original R&M bearings were standard ball bearing. At least the ones I've pulled out seemed to be. The Moss bearing is as original, no seals. When you install sealed axle nuts however, you should go with a sealed bearing.

[ROGER FURNEAUX]

The number of balls must affect the load bearing capacity and life, otherwise why would they be made and sold at greater cost? The increased area of contact is the difference, which is why taper-roller bearings out-perform balls, on stub axles and diff. pinions (but cannot unfortunately be used in our rear hubs., although they are in modern cars).

If there is a qualified mechanical engineer out there, we would welcome their input!

Roger

[Duncan M]

One thing we need to keep in mind about wheel bearing types is that the wheels on a TC (and therefore the wheel bearings) are only ever spinning at a fairly low speed. A TC with 27" outside diameter tires, the wheels are only spinning at 754 RPM at 60mph. A TC with 30" outside dia (model A tires) are only spinning at 676 RPM at 60mph.

[JonnyP]

I’ve finally gathered together all of the parts required to replace 2190’s rear wheel bearings and fit sealed hub nuts, etc. Can anybody tell me how long it should take me to change the bearings, fit the speedi-sleeves and refit, per side please? Any traps for the unwary I should look out for?

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hi
look to my blog here
Mg TA 1932
and you will see what could happen, there are a lot of pictures
if you get all parts out without any problems then you can make one side in one hour
but
if you have problems ....
i couldn t get out one half shaft,
the car came with three new hlf shafts, i think they have tried it but doesn t found the way
with some help here i got the solution to do it
now this problem would not be a problem in the future.

[Steve Simmons]

"How long" depends on how fast you work and how familiar you are with the assembly. An experienced mechanic should be able to do it in a short afternoon, assuming no issues pop up. The biggest issue I can think of is if your axle housing ends are damaged. To repair it can involve removing, welding and machining the axle. There isn't much else to go wrong. Inspect the splined hubs to make sure they aren't worn out before going through all the trouble of installing sleeves and reassembling.

[JonnyP]

Thanks all.

[antijam]

If anyone else is after rear wheel bearings there are currently a pair of original sealed R&M's for sale on ebay.

[ROGER FURNEAUX]

These cannot be "original TC " bearings because they have seals, which were probably not invented in 1945!

I always stock new bearings, 6208ZZ & BL208ZZ (two metal shields, greased for life).

Roger