TA Body Tub Timber Construction Pictures

[Rob Reilly]

Working on the right door. This is after bending the hinges in the press so they are pretty close to closing flat together.
I decided that the rocker rail below the door was just too high at the front. So I removed it and cut the notch in the latch pillar about 1/4" lower down.
Then I had to take the belt sander and take off a bit more in a couple of places on the latch pillar.
Now the door closes more or less right.

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I might go back and do that on the left side rocker rail.

[robj]

Congratulations! Looking good.
Moving right along. I think getting the doors fit is definitely a milestone in tub building!

robj

[robj]

Rob,

Just about got my doors together, [ok, maybe half-way there] the timbers are fitted and screwed, but still need to take them back apart, coat the timbers, make the TCF hinge strengthener, planish the fold over and nail. So really maybe 2/3 the way there.

Are you taking a break? I'm getting close to working on the tub again and your thread has been a great help/inspiration!

robj

[Rob Reilly]

>Are you taking a break?<

An unplanned forced break. June 21st I had severe chest pain and rushed to the hospital. They did a CAT scan. It was an aortic aneurysm, which meant emergency surgery, and about 6 weeks of recovery, no lifting or driving. They found it just in time. I guess the Lord has something else in mind for me.
Meanwhile I've spent my idle time ordering seats and a few other parts on line.
So a disappointing summer. I missed two all-British car shows.

[Duncan M]

That is some pretty serious stuff, Rob. Good to hear you doing well.

[robj]

That was scary I'm sure. Please get well soon. Best wishes.
robj

[Rob Reilly]

Thanks for your concern. Getting better gradually.
Yesterday I was able to get out to the barn and do some actual car work. I put the firewall (scuttle) in place and discovered I need some information.

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The top front outer rail and side front outer rails, how should they be placed? There are screw holes in them, but no corresponding screw holes in the top and side front inner rails.

[Mick bibby]

Hi Bob survived!!! Great stuff . Not done much on my body as I have a 1939 TA which is my main project at the moment, hope this helps I have placed mine imagining the bonnet/hood fit to be level with the scuttle regards Mick

[Rob Reilly]

Thanks Mick for that picture. That makes sense, now I understand there has to be a step where the bonnet sits.
And I was not aware of the rubber bonnet rest strip there. Moss USA and Frame Up carry it, so I will get one. That probably defines the size of the step.

[robj]

Rob,
Not sure if this helps but my TC is still in an "as found" condition up front.

robj

[Rob Reilly]

Thanks Rob, I see a rubber seal between the steel firewall and the wood, that's another thing I was not aware of until I looked up the bonnet seal in Frame Up. So I guess my firewall is coming off again. Two steps forward and one step back.
Rob R

[robj]

Hi Rob,
I just printed out your photo of the hinge timber and the wheel arch and it's beautiful. [sorry Rob, the ones I printed are from Mick Bibby's photos] But still beautiful.
I'm working in that direction but in TC Forever Mike mentions holding the "inner guards" [inner fenders] in place. I had preciously modified my inners to fit my existing [Prior owner homemade] tub which was quite a bit out of wack.
In building the new tub, I figured the inner fenders and the fenders themselves need to fit so I guess I'm sort of doing both at once.
Anyway, my question is, have you put the inner guards in place to see how they fit against your woodwork?

I have the hinge pillars in the proper position and the back panel, [with the TC Forevermore modification] in place but I'm struggling a little making the inner panels fit as I'm attempting to fit the wheel arch. The inners are pretty much located by the bolt holes in the sub-frame so everything else works out from there. Have you tried your inners?
My current situation...

thanks,
robj

[Will]

Rob,
There has been a lot of chat about the Moss bonnet support rubber being the wrong section. Not sure about FTFU. The correct section is the one shown by Mick. I got mine from B&G.
Unfortunately we do see cars where the rubber does not overlap the scuttle possibly due to an incorrect section.
Enjoying your journey and perseverance, keep it coming.

[Rob Reilly]

Rob J, I have not attempted to fit my inner rear fenders, as they have quite a lot of little rust holes and will need a lot of patch welding. But thanks for the tip.

Will, I bought rear bonnet rubber and firewall rubber from Frame Up, which should be here by Saturday.
I've generally been happy with parts from Doug, as he seems to care quite a lot about accuracy.

Speaking of the bonnet, what about these corner bumpers, also from Doug?

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They do not have holes for attaching with rivets, although the bonnet does.

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Here is what I bought for my '38 SS Jaguar from a pre-war to '48 Jaguar source.

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and the originals.

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[robj]

Rob J, I have not attempted to fit my inner rear fenders, as they have quite a lot of little rust holes and will need a lot of patch welding. But thanks for the tip.

I'm having a little trouble fitting the timber across the top of the wheel, [it's not level which I think it's supposed to be]. It seems like the wood needs to fit the inner guard as it would be difficult to change the metal guard.
The other suggestion in TC Forever was to hold the rear of the rear fender up to the transition of the backboard to the side timbers to make sure that's a fit as well. Assuming the theory is you can't change the shape of the fender so the wood has to be made to fit.
It's like a 3 dimensional jigsaw puzzle... And possibly making my head hurt a little...

robj

[ferricsteed]

Rob and Rob, I completed my TB last year. I worked through similar issues. I decided to use the outside fenders to shape the wood. Any small imperfections would be covered by the trim. The inner fenders were purchased new as old ones were just rusted away. I had to make minor and major surgery (welding) to get the inners to fit. The keys areas were to make it round where they meet the wood. I made slits to add metal and had to cut thin pie shapes out in other areas to make smaller. I wanted the inner fenders flush against the bull horn and final trimming along the backboard near vertical end. My thinking was the original fender was fixed datum, wood was mare easily trimmed (or added to) inner fender repair work would be unseen in final finish. My 2 cents or pence worth. Tim TB0613 in hot Louisiana.

[robj]

Tim,
That's along the lines of the direction I'm headed. I had already made repairs to my inners to fit the old tub better and I think to fit the new tub I may have to trim some width at the wheel opening in some places and add a little metal to make it wider in others. I started holding the quarter panels up last night. I think they're going to be a bit more of a challenge.
Anyone have any experience with FTFU quarter panels?

robj

[ferricsteed]

I had to buy new quarter panels too. I kept the old rusty ones to use as a guide. Doug does warn you that the new quarters will need massaging, a fair amount in my case. Again, I used the outer fender as datum, bent the quarters to match fender circle (and the wood frame). The door slots needed adjusting after you are sure of door fit. As you stated in your write-up, door fit is everything. It took alot of back and forth to get the quarters to fit door hinge area. Last suggestion: don't bend the quarter panel where it fits into the vertical slot on the backboard until after all other adjustments are done. I had to hammer mine straight and re-bend. I got too cock-sure of myself early on.

[Rob Reilly]

I made a trial fit of my inner rear fenders and it looks like they will be good. But there is a lot of patch welding to do first.
Every place where they made contact with the old timber there are rust holes.

Any comments on the rubber corners for the bonnet?

[Duncan M]

Rob-
I can only comment on TC corners. Pretty confident this one is factory. No signs of writing. Note the special split pin type rivet fastener and washers. FTFU seems to have a good reproduction. RU120 https://fromtheframeup.com/collections/ ... set-bonnet The rear axle check straps also have a split pin arrangement to mount the rubber.