TC Forever More Tub Frame Modification and Tub Build

[robj]

So after over 3 months, the doors are completed.
For the TC Forever More door hinge strap modification Mike removes the inner sheet metal support between the hinges and cuts off the inner portion. I started doing that but looking at their condition, it seemed a better idea just to make new ones.

As the timbers were fitted in some areas there considerable gap between the wood and the folded over portion of the sheet metal where it's nailed on. To change the position of that 90 degree bend I used an Ox air planishing hammer which I also used around the entire perimeter to tighten the fit. It worked well and the numerous small rapid hits form the metal without as much impact on the wood as hammer blows would. But it is LOUD! In one or 2 spots I needed to cut a small slice in the flange, planish it over and weld it up. No harm no foul..

Probably over 50% of the original nails I removed were loose and had backed out part-way. I found some 3//4" serrated stainless steel boat nails installed using a #27 drill bit. Tight but not too tight. I doubt these will back out.

I did potentially screw up on the first door as I hammered the nails down tight. This was before I remembered the door will need to be tweaked in curve to fit properly. The second door I put the nails flush but not hammered down tight so they can shift a little. We'll see if the first door nailed creates a problem.

I do have the adjustable straps with the turnbuckle so that may help. I also let the ends of the straps into the wood so they're flush as I have a "different" plan for the inner door panels.

So a coat of epoxy primer and they'll keep until fitting and finishing. The timbers took only a week or two. Most of the time was spent repairing holes, welding new metal in and panel work. But they turned out pretty decent.

robj

[robj]

Some additional photos;

[Steve Simmons]

Flathead screws inside the door. I like the attention to detail.

[robj]

Moving forward, more or less.

After getting the doors as close as possible before fitting I moved onto the tub. First getting the hinge timbers clamped on at 90 degrees to the Bottom Main Side Rail. then checking across the top for 45 1/2 where the Bulls horn meets. And 42" at the bottom where the Hinge Timber intersects with the Main side rail.
Everything checked out so I thought I was good. Temporally clamped the Elbow, then as suggested in TCF, checked the fit of the inner fender and there we had some issues.

The bulls horn on the right prevented the inner from moving inboard far enough for the inner to be 90 degrees to the rear deck lid and the top of the inner, level. Heated the horn enough to bend it for clearance, then began fitting the inner fender at the rear where the rear wing block and the backboard meet.

Managed to get that pretty close but it needs some fine tuning. It was then I realized something looked wonky with the hinge pillars. Although the measurements were correct, the hinge pillars were at different angles compared to the subframe. I cut a piece of steel to go across the subframe for a good base for the angle finder and as it appeared, both were at a different angle.
After much fiddling and bending of the subframe support that helps fix the hinge timber in place, I eventually ended up with both angles the same.

So, with 42" at the base of the timbers, and 45 1/2" at the indicated spot on the hinge timber, the resulting angle both of the hinge timbers is 98 degrees. [ignore the photo, I had something wonky there.]
I'm not sure I've read this measurement anywhere so there you go.

90 degrees to the main timber, 42" at the bottom and 45.5 " at the bull horns results in an equal angle of 98 degrees.

From there I continued to fitting the inners to the Elbow and the Rear Top Side Rail.

I would like to say everything looks great but the Rear Top Side Rails looks higher at the front and I'm pretty sure it should appear level. In addition, I'm not sure the Bulls Horn will fit correctly when clearance is allowed for the inner fender. I feel like it will end up less than 45.5".
That being said as I now know the Hinge Timber is correct, I put some screws in that and if I'm forced to I'll weld a small section into the bulls horn on one or both sides..

But my concern now is fitting the Top Side Rail. I'm pretty sure I need to make the rail fit the inner fender as that's fixed in place vertically by the holes in the subframe and changing the shape of that would be pretty difficult. It's looking like I may need to remove some wood at the front of the wheel radius.

I must say although the wood timbers took some fiddling, so far the fit of the wood I got from Crag Seabrook is better than anything I got for Moss or FTFU.
I've got additional measuring to do, then maybe screw things together temporarily to check the fit of the fender and the rear quarter panel. I'm for sure not changing the shape of the fender.

So sort of progress,

robj

[robj]

Posted here for continuity;Trying to get everything "just right" as I've learned over the years that errors, if ignored, seem to compound themselves.

I thought I had the hinge pillars exactly right [working out of TC Forever] then looked at TC Forever More for a measurement and noticed a hinge pillar height measurement which I had not noticed before.

In "Forever" a measurement from top of the hinge pillar is given as 14 1/4", however the drawing is not clear regarding the top point of measurement. At the very top, [position # 2] I'm at 14 1/8".
Although 1/8" shy, I may be able to live with that.
I think? Any thoughts?

However if that measurement is from the #1 position, I'm 1/2" off and for that I think the pillar may need to be raised.

Thoughts/information?

Thanks,
robj

[robj]

Appears the doors weren't the only thing to get a liberal application of metal filled filler...