TA Body Tub Timber Construction Pictures

[Mick bibby]

Hi Bob
I found fitting my front panels not to bad , definitely don’t fix anything until your happy with the fit, I clamped the panel to the body using the pump type clamps and used blocks of wood, the spring type clamps won’t hold I think,
Internal door opening first, I did the straight bits bottom and front section with dolly and hammer ,this seemed to help hold it in place whilst I carried on, I then I did the curves using a blocking hammer and dolly,so that should be the internal door opening done, both the bottom and upright section have a curve in them (compound)but should take on the curve when you send these sections over, I turned the steel over about 1/2” The wider the lip the harder it is to turn over especially on the tight curved sections.
I then worked on the front section at the fire wall, clamp steel panel at front of door in a few places tight so it holds the panel tight upto front of tub and aim at getting a section turned here then take the clamps of a do the full height, I found the slight curve hard to keep tight , I had to “over shrink “ it to get it to lay tight.
the section at the top has a compound curve on it see picture where it meets the “scuttle “this was hard to achieve as this is where the windscreen brackets fit and you’ll find a lot of messy around to get it right , once all was well I sent the bottom under door section over , the bottom also has a curve!
Also just keep an eye on the panel as it goes up to the scuttle, I have also fitted my rear quarter panels and used a temporary buck I shall post I a few days

[Mick bibby]

Sorry Bob I forget to mention everybody has their own way of doing things but when I went to Hutsons all the TA bodies are made on simple wooden trestle, s
I don’t know if it’s common knowledge over the pond but they did a body build on YouTube of them making a TD , it’s worth a watch especially the very technical and precise door adjustment

[Rob Reilly]

Thanks John, Stephen and Mick. I found that TotallyT article.
I will use C-clamps and long wood blocks to hold the panel when doing the bends.
I also have Sherrell and Green's books on T series restoration and Alderwick's book on wood body framing.
I should have mentioned that I did indeed build the wood frame on the chassis and fitted the doors, but I had to take it off in order to form and put on the new lower side panels.
I wasn't sure what to do with the top edge where the cowl panel overlaps; same with the upper side panel overlapping behind the door. Lyell shows a rebate where the lower panel tucks in and the upper panel just overlaps it. No nails there.
I'm using the original upper side panels and cowl.

[Mick bibby]

Hi Rob
Just thought I would post this just incase there’s more then 3 maniacs in the world totally rebuilding a TA (R R and R J that’s you guys ha ha )
So I started by making a paper template of the area , making sure you leave enough material over the top of the wheel arch and the section down to the hinge pillar,this nearly caught me out and just managed to get it !
#1 istarted off by doing the first fold at the back of the tub the little slot on the back board, this was done on the bench and the panel was then placed back and clamped tight , use blocks of wood to protect the panel. I used a level and marked a line vertical so i could trim the bottom section, I used a couple of small screws to hold it in place.bend the panel around the rear quarter by hand keeping it tight and clamping as you go along.clamp to the hinge pillar and mark the panel on the inside with a sharpie between the 2 hinges, remove panel and fold this section over, I cut the sections out for the hinges prior to doing this fold replace the panel and clamp.#3
I then turned the steel at rear of arch over from the bottom onto where the curve starts using a dolly and hammer.#4
I did a test piece to see if I could turn the wheel arch over with the dolly but had to mark inside rear of arch remove and put a crease in with my cheap bead roller , I then sent this over using a dolly and blocking hammer.#5 . I use 1mm … 0.8 would be easier
I then sent the section #6 over with hammer and dolly this went over fine . Make sure your side screen brackets are flush with the top of the body otherwise you’ll end up with an ugly curve in this section.
I then made a buck out of 2 pieces on 1/2 ply stuck together see picture I scribed it in tight to the wheel arch on the inside of the body and then formed it with a sanding disc. Basically another wheel arch , mark in a way you can clamp on your panel when removed for car , keeping everything tight, you can now work with it on the bench,
I used a blocking hammer to send the internal curve over just above the top hinge , slow and steady, I used a hammer and dolly to send the straight, ish section up to the top curve and from the side screen bracket forward to the front curve#7&8 still on the buck
The curve at the top I could not get it over even with the Shrinker and ended up cutting with a small hacksaw and tiging . There’s the tight little rebate bit just above the hinge I sent over with a cheap chisel ended hammer , take your time I also found a little tack hammer useful. You will end up with a small piece at the top of the door hinge pillar I made a piece for this and tiged in …. Just like the original, you can now once happy send the final fold over to the inside of the body. I used polytop nails with the heads off and drilled small pilot holes to assist fixing. I hope this makes sense, and finally all you professional body guys out there i hope after reading this and fell on the floor crying with laughter you haven’t hurt yourselves

[Mick bibby]

Sorry Bob I’ve posted this here to give continuation I hope you don’t mind , I am sure Steve could move it if needed

[Mick bibby]

Sorry finished tub no body filler,,,,,,, yet

[robj]

Really nice work. Looks great!
My last post was in September when I was hoping to have my friends Jeep out the door in 2 weeks. Well, it's not out the door yer. Despite running, driving and stopping, I think just about every component on it was worn out. I've got probably 1000 hours on it and he's at almost $4000 in parts. But it is finally reaching it's conclusion and I can get back to the TC.

The sheet metal on mine isn't terrible so I'm attempting to make my wood fit the tin. I had reworked my tubs to fit the old wood and I think they are going to take quite a bit of work to re-fit them to the new plan.

Hopefully I can post some photos of progress or at least moan about the lack thereof.

I'm sure it feels good to see your tub together. A milestone for sure!

robj

[Rob Reilly]

Well, I had forgotten that I started this topic and I should have just continued on it instead of starting another.

Anyway, I realized I should put on the inner rear fenders before any other panels, so I did today, using the 1/4-20 x 3/4 flat head (or countersunk) screws specified and provided by Doug at From the Frame Up.
Now I can see where to cut notches in the timber for clearance on the caged nuts.
Then I thought, why flat heads? Why not round heads? Well I found a picture from when I took the old body apart, and it has flat heads with square nuts. Its because with the 1/8" felt padding in there, the flat heads will put a dimple in the panel and not protrude like a round head would.
Here are pictures of the right rear inner fender as was and as is.

[BCBryan]

Here's few photos which might help. The key thing is that there are 4 small rail pieces of metal which sit on the ash rails surrounding the door opening. You will spot weld the side pane to these as you fit around the door. The pictures are more helpful than a lot of words. You might have to cut a couple of darts in the side panel metal which would bend over to account for the slight curve in the panel.
It's a good precaution to test fit the doors a few times to make sure you have clearance.
You can see the need to have accurate curves on you ash have on the wooden frame.
Good Luck and work slowly, Bryan.

[Steve Simmons]

Want me to combine the threads?

Well, I had forgotten that I started this topic and I should have just continued on it instead of starting another.

[robj]

I don't know about the "posting Rob", but this "following with great interest Rob" would love to see Rob's posts combined. They've been very helpful.

Rob,
I used S.S. flat head screws also [slotted of course] as my frame had existing countersunk dimples.


robj

[Rob Reilly]

Sure, that would be fine with me Steve.
Might as well combine the threads about screws in the rear fenders and bolts in the firewall if you think that would be helpful for future readers.

[Rob Reilly]

"my frame had existing countersunk dimples."

That's interesting. Mine did not in the rear inner fender region, although it did have some countersunk holes farther forward. Probably they were considered an improvement.
But let's not start documenting every little anomaly like this, otherwise we might be in danger of turning into Corvette people.

[Steve Simmons]

Topics merged.

But let's not start documenting every little anomaly like this, otherwise we might be in danger of turning into Corvette people.

You aren't wrong!

[Rob Reilly]

Bryan, that's also interesting. My TA1271 definitely did not have those extra strips in the door sills, just nails.
Sounds like another improvement that came along later.

[robj]

Keep in mind I'm working on a TC. That being said Rob's tub construction has been very helpful as I think there are more similarities than differences.
Had to laugh at the Corvette remark. I have a vintage BMW motorcycle, ['59 R69] and I think the BMW guys might be worse.

As for the thin metal sill strip, I believe I read the early TC's did not have that, only the later one. No clue about the TA.

robj