Rebuilding TC5560

[Steve Simmons]

My BDR 7 (220 bhp) has the exhaust coming over the chassis rail, through the bonnet. The heat escapes out if the unwrapped pipes. I've never had a problem with fuel vapourisation

Sure, but your 7 is a completely different animal than a TC, even if it has carburetors instead of fuel injection. Try placing two SU carbs with external fuel bowls directly over the exhaust manifold. Now place the intake manifold between the header pipes. Next, place the fuel pump right behind and above the manifold. Then close up the bonnet tight around the engine to limit air flow. Now tell me some exhaust insulation won't help! If nothing else, the air going into the carbs will be 20-degrees cooler. Not that wrap is a necessity on a TC, but in this type of car it does help in certain situations. I've seen ceramic coating completely cure vapor lock on more than one TC locally. Our climate can get quite hot though.

My supercharged '67 has the carb sitting about an inch over the rear header pipe. That one pipe is wrapped to help prevent vaporization, cool intake air and keep me from burning my hands when tuning! It was actually placed there by the builder / dyno guy.

[frenchblatter]

Steve, my 7 has carbs, 2 weber 45s.

The point I make is that if you wrap the downpipe in heat insulating material where do you think the heat goes. Well it goes down the pipe and radiates off the unwrapped portion of the pipes. It also goes back into the engine and heats the exhaust port and exhaust valve.

The fact is the head, on the exhaust side will be hottor with wrapping than without. It can cause a problem but maybe not. I have fitted two insulation blocks between carbs and manifold.

[stephen stierman]

Sorry, I don't buy it. As I mentioned the head pipes on my Plus 8 have been wrapped for 25,000 miles without issue. What about all those ceramic coated manifolds? Are they different from header wrap? Jaguar used to coat all the XK manifolds, so did many others. Because somebody says so, doesn't mean it is true. Is there a thermal engineer in this group that can show us some real data, not he said she said?

[Marv]

"Ditto!" I'd like to see some empirical data to back up the words as well! Otherwise, this horse has been pretty much beaten to death!

[SteveW]

Heat only flows from hot places to cold places. It does this by convection, conduction and radiation. This is basic physics and anyone who thinks otherwise should let me know as I have a perpetual motion machine that I would like to sell them.

If the exhaust manifold is hotter than the head then heat can flow from the manifold to the head via conduction through the metal. It will do this whether or not its insulated unless you insulate the manifold from the head somehow. Insulating the manifold stops the heat radiating to other parts of the engine bay that its not in direct contact with and is there to stop petrol evaporation and to keep the intake air cooler so you get more expansion in the cylinder on ignition.

Sorry - I probably shouldn't be perpetuating this thread!!

[Herman 5560]

Took a bit of a sabbatical on the restoration. Took on some building around the garage to create some additional storage so the garden tools can be moved out of the garage and at the same time move the compressor as it is taking up prime space due to its size.
My bodyshop man told me that the fuel tank is basically beyond the point of any repairs.
I do not have the money right now to import a new tank, but have two alternatives...
1) Cut the tank open at the back and fabricate a smalles stainless steel tank and fit it inside the original tank or

2) Fabricate a SS tank to fit into the space in front of the diff, both sides of the drive shaft. Would give me about a 30L tank.

What does the forum think?

[Steve Simmons]

Hard to believe it's so bad that it can't be saved. If that's really the case, I suppose you could manufacture a new tank to fit inside as you described. Just use the remnants of the original tank to hide the new one. Not my first choice but it would work.

[Herman 5560]

Anybody on here ever made their own fuel tank from scratch. Ofcoarse using brackets ans filler neck from old tank

[Herman 5560]

I do not have any of the cables, Start, Choke and Fast idle.

Can somebody help me with pics and dimension so I can get our local cableman make them up for me.

[Herman 5560]

This is the only pic I can get after hours of surfing. Is the inner a single wire or a cable made up of a lot of thin wires? Is it the standard that this cable must be turned to lock the choke in place?

[dirk w dondorp]

single-so called pianowire (over here) and turned to lock (choke) Think are all available at T parts suppliers UK and USA

[Steve Simmons]

Choke and starter are both stranded wire. The knob is a small, simple one without markings.

[Herman 5560]

Approximate length?.

[Steve Simmons]

From the end of the threads, 57" for the housing and 67" for the cable. This is a Moss reproduction.

[Herman 5560]

Spent the week end re producing the steel behind the dash and A Pillars. I order not to destroy the door fitment I had to hang the doors. for easy access ito the car I folded the Lh door all the way round...180 Deg.

I know the wood in my car is in a terrible state...but that is a future project.

This did not look right so I looked up and found there should be a "Door Check" to prevent this. Also found it in all the catalogs ...once I knew what to look for.

some picks please of how and where this is fitted. Looks pretty easy to re manufacture so some sizes will not be bad to facilitate the process.

[Herman 5560]

Nothing mentioned in TC FE, but had a good look at my doors and tub.

There are some holes in the metal cladding, but nothing in the wood. Could this be where the "Door Check" should be fitted?

Does the hinge side go onto the Tub? The hole in the door is much larger than the one on the tub side

[cdrolshagen]

Hello Herman,
attached pictures may answer you question what is behind the hole in the door post.
If you send me a PM with your email adress than I give you acess to 600 pictures of a TC restauration process,
cheers Carl

[Herman 5560]

Thanks Carl...Done

Back to the Door Stay...

If somebody can give me a few dimensions.

I have found an App the week end that will scale directly from a .jpg file, if you just have a reference dimension.

Is the threaded part a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt? On Carl's car it can also be a 7/16 bolt. The rest I can calculate if I also know how far open does this part make your door go.

[cdrolshagen]

Hi Herman,
it is 1/4 Inch
for the measurments give me some hours - I think I still have the original Door Post
Carl

[cdrolshagen]

Hi Herman,
hope that is what you are looking for...........
cheers from the very wet and cold northen Germany