Rebuilding TC5560

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stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by stephen stierman » Mon Feb 27, 2017 6:49 am

See photo, hinge slides into larger hole in door.
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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:49 am

Just what I was looking for. Is it a 6 mm or 8 mm bar going into the door?

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stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by stephen stierman » Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:31 am

1/4" about.................

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searunner
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by searunner » Tue Mar 07, 2017 1:03 am

Herman 5560 wrote:Took a bit of a sabbatical on the restoration. Took on some building around the garage to create some additional storage so the garden tools can be moved out of the garage and at the same time move the compressor as it is taking up prime space due to its size.
My bodyshop man told me that the fuel tank is basically beyond the point of any repairs.
I do not have the money right now to import a new tank, but have two alternatives...
1) Cut the tank open at the back and fabricate a smalles stainless steel tank and fit it inside the original tank or

2) Fabricate a SS tank to fit into the space in front of the diff, both sides of the drive shaft. Would give me about a 30L tank.

What does the forum think?
Same problem - solved fitting my outboard Marine portable Tank 22 Liter capacity
stay exactly in the seat rear side- connected to the fuel pipe by a long rubber fuel pipe no modification needed

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dirk w dondorp
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by dirk w dondorp » Wed Mar 08, 2017 2:50 am

Hmmmm:-((

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stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by stephen stierman » Wed Mar 08, 2017 7:15 am

What does "basically beyond repair" mean? What is leaking exactly? The typical leaks from the bottom of these tanks are from the spot welds that hold the brackets allowing the tank to sit on the frame rails, not a rusted out tank. The spot welds fatigue and leak, this is easily fixed by drilling out the feet and removing them, soldering or welding the spot welds and re attaching the feet at a slightly different area.

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frenchblatter
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by frenchblatter » Wed Mar 08, 2017 1:32 pm

Stephen, I was thinking that. I welded a few patches on mine, under the side panels and on the inner face. I got Maurice at the bodyshop to repair a few rusty areas on the outward face as he has the skill to do an invisable repair.
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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:34 am

Bottom has 3 massive lead repairs and there is now an additional 5 wet spots. Also the outlet has been puttied up, but still leaking. The sides have been repaired and seem to be fine. Just not sure about the condition inside. Do not want to have rust in fuel lines and carbs for ever and a day. :?

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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:27 am

French Blatting, your web sie is invalable for my rebuild. Keep on going back and finding solutions...thanks.

Any advice as to what to cover first when you come to the rear interior of the car.

I got this pic From FB site, but why invent the wheel.

Do you first cover the wheel arches and then the sides of the box and then fit them op top of the covered wheel arches ???? :?
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Duncan M
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Duncan M » Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:25 pm

There should be some thin padding under the covering for wheel arches, correct?

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frenchblatter
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by frenchblatter » Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:24 pm

I've put some felt under the covers but, as yet I haven't glued the top cover to the felt. It was a winter job, but I spent winter in hospital so it's 2nd on the list now, unless the sun shine. I've got a can of 3M spray high heat glue used for headlings and such like. I'll look up the full name if you want.
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stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by stephen stierman » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:04 am

Cover the wheel arches first. Now a hint for you, the covers that came in my Moss kit were fine but they are flat and I suspect this is the way most of them are made. The arches do have a curve to them, sort of three dimensional. If you try to glue the arches down they tend to wrinkle, tried this with one side and it did not look good so pulled it up. What I ended up doing was gluing thin felt to the arch first, cut it into pieces so it would lay flat. Then I tacked the lower edge of the cover to the timber along the side of the rear access door, stretched it the best I could and tacked it along the timbers above the wheel arch. Used a hair dryer to facilitate this process. I let it sit for several day in warm weather, then pulled it loose at the top, again stretching and re tacking, did this several times so that the vinyl sort of stretched itself into a decent shape without wrinkles. I never did feel the need to glue it down. Looks pretty good now, although you really do not see much of it.

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stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by stephen stierman » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:08 am

Herman 5560 wrote:Bottom has 3 massive lead repairs and there is now an additional 5 wet spots. Also the outlet has been puttied up, but still leaking. The sides have been repaired and seem to be fine. Just not sure about the condition inside. Do not want to have rust in fuel lines and carbs for ever and a day. :?
Herman, assume you inspected the inside of the tank though the sender hole for internal rust at the bottom? Keep in mind because there is solder at the bottom does not mean the tank was actually rusty, it still could have been coming from those spot welds. If you see rust flaking inside off the bottom, I would concur, but maybe that is not the case.

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frenchblatter
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by frenchblatter » Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:35 am

Stephen, I got my interior trim from Tom Watson. It all fitted perfectly

I'm going to look for thinner felt as I seem to have lost one of Toms and the stuff I picked up at the bodyshop is a bit thich to lay smooth.
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Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Steve Simmons » Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:19 am

You can have the fuel tank stripped, removing all traces of rust. Then cut out the rotten bottom and have a new one welded in. Then re-paint and install. Good as new!
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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Sun Apr 02, 2017 3:30 am

Finally got my "Bull Horn Brkt" completed.
The fact that it is solid, means it is as heavy as anything and I could have used it for a bumper as well. :lol:
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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Sun Apr 02, 2017 3:42 am

Received the wires for the new wiring loom.
Most of the colours are correct, but there are a few I could not get, but all insulated with cotton :thumbs:

I can not find the diameter of the steel shielding that should be used.
Can anybody help with the diameter and length :?
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Wiring Loom 1 S.jpg

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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Sun Apr 02, 2017 4:36 am

To stop the cotton from fraying, I fit 25mm heat shrink to every wire and then trim 10 mm of open wire.

Question...should I tint (apply solder) to the wires before fitting to items such as the regulator, or should I just leave them as is?

"Hot" wires gets Red shrink and wires with power only once switched on gets black shrink.

Is the shrink wrap a big no-no to the purists?
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Wire strip 2.jpg

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Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by Herman 5560 » Sun Apr 02, 2017 4:43 am

Not shore if I got the correct part.

I ordered the rubber bellows for my steering shaft passing through the fire wall and received a round bellows with the hole slightly off set to one side, but then I wanted to fit if I found my firewall to have a oval hole. The bellows lines up with 3 of the screw holes in the fire wall. Only problem the top is still totally open. Is there a filler piece missing or do I have the wrong part?
:? :?
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frenchblatter
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560

Post by frenchblatter » Sun Apr 02, 2017 6:17 am

Mine was the round one and fitted.
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