Rebuilding TC5560
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
I know there are gaskets out there but I don't believe they were originally fitted.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Does anybody know where one can order them? I will go with some 2l soda bottle cut to be 2 mm proud and fit that to protect my door paintwork.
Any better ideas?
Any better ideas?
Last edited by Herman 5560 on Sat Mar 16, 2019 7:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Rebuilding TC5560
I did a quick check of FTFU, Moss, Abingdon Spares, Naylor Bros, Anglio and Rimmer. No one offers gaskets or the TC door handles. TD yes, but they are different handles. Not a bad idea but I think you'll have to make your own out of thin rubber or poly film stock....
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
I don't think there's any real need since I haven't seen paintwork damaged by the handles, but if you do want to use a gasket then I'd make it as thin as possible. You need as much of the square peg as you can get inserted into the latch. Too little and it can round out the female square piece.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/tube-socket-72105
Posted in a Tool forum, but thought it could be interesting here as well.
Posted in a Tool forum, but thought it could be interesting here as well.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Anybody with a deep restore that can help with those bonnet catch dimensions.
I want to have some stuff lazer cut on Monday and they have a minimum charge.
Would like to fill the order with these parts, just drew all the little brackets to go onto the starter. Page 246 in TC for Ever.
I want to have some stuff lazer cut on Monday and they have a minimum charge.
Would like to fill the order with these parts, just drew all the little brackets to go onto the starter. Page 246 in TC for Ever.
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
The brake master nut is Whitworth. Rather than make a custom tool, you can install an extended nut which makes it simple to install and remove the nut with a normal wrench.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Thanks for that tip.
Brilliant out of the box thinking.
What size spanner was it originally? As can be seen it is not 1" or 1¼" it measures 28, but that also equates to a shifting spanner in my garage.
Brilliant out of the box thinking.
What size spanner was it originally? As can be seen it is not 1" or 1¼" it measures 28, but that also equates to a shifting spanner in my garage.
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
If I recall correctly, it's a 3/4" thread with 1 1/8" head on the nut. FTFU currently sells a longer nut that works perfectly fine, although it isn't quite as nice looking as the extended ones Phil Marino used to sell. Not that anyone but you will ever see it...
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
The joys of building a harness.
Up to watch the GP so taping up another few wires while I wait.
Not allowed to make a noise and wake wifie.
Up to watch the GP so taping up another few wires while I wait.
Not allowed to make a noise and wake wifie.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
This is what I came up with.
This is what it looks like fitted. About 1.6mm thick.
please honest feedback...What do you think?
This is what it looks like fitted. About 1.6mm thick.
please honest feedback...What do you think?
Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Good Job... I admire your tenacity …...
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
I will NOT let this car beat me
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
I think you did a nice job. Me personally, I think seeing the gasket would bother me on my own car. Since your car is black, I'm betting it isn't very noticeable though.
I won't mention the posidrive screws. Come to think of it, I won't admit where they are on my TC also.
I won't mention the posidrive screws. Come to think of it, I won't admit where they are on my TC also.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
For now I am trying to get a runner. For 5 years I have been saving to order the "RIGHT" bits.
What is the best alternative to the standard master cylinder. Fitted mine after spending a lot of money for re-sleeving and a rebuild and a total disaster. Leaks out the front and at the back where the brass "T" piece goes. Everything tight to the point where it will brake if I apply any more force.
Would also like to go for a dual system for added safety. Found a tread on fitting a beetle unit but that was a little untidy.
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
The standard MC has worked well for me. Are you using the correct copper washers? Try new ones, or at least anneal the old ones. Even the tiniest imperfection in the sealing surfaces will allow fluid to escape. A leak at the front is another matter of course, that's probably a bore issue. If you need another MC, try a new one from Butch Taras or FTFU.
The TC brakes seem pretty safe to me, but if something did go wrong then you have that highly effective hand brake within easy reach. It will stop the car very quickly if pulled while at speed.
I'm still trying to correct all the incorrect hardware on my car. It seems like I'll never get there.
The TC brakes seem pretty safe to me, but if something did go wrong then you have that highly effective hand brake within easy reach. It will stop the car very quickly if pulled while at speed.
I'm still trying to correct all the incorrect hardware on my car. It seems like I'll never get there.
- Herman 5560
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Was thinking about something with at least half the brakes work if you get a leak and a remote reservoir so i do not have to act like a snake to fill it. There is lots of space in the engine compartment
A SS fuel tank wil cost 1/10th of what i paid for my car. So for now the boat is minus a fuel tank
A SS fuel tank wil cost 1/10th of what i paid for my car. So for now the boat is minus a fuel tank
- Herman 5560
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- Location: Port Elizabeth SA
Re: Rebuilding TC5560
Does anybody know the specs of the cylinder...Bore and stroke?
Does not seem to be general knowledge on the net. Would like to match the volume displacement. Can always fiddle with the stroke.
Does not seem to be general knowledge on the net. Would like to match the volume displacement. Can always fiddle with the stroke.
- stephen stierman
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
When I bought TC2911 it came with a leaking TD master cylinder. The mounting for the original was cut off also. I could have bought a repro and welded the mounting back on but instead installed a small Wilwood MC that bolts through a couple of holes in the chassis and it works fine. I would have preferred the original, but the cost at that time was quite high and I needed to buy other things that were shall we say "more visible".
I have had hydraulic fittings seep from time to time and found that cleaning them off with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner and than doping them up with JB Weld, letting it dry overnight, will typically seal them. They are also easily removed if need be as the stuff does not really weld anything.
I have had hydraulic fittings seep from time to time and found that cleaning them off with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner and than doping them up with JB Weld, letting it dry overnight, will typically seal them. They are also easily removed if need be as the stuff does not really weld anything.
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Rebuilding TC5560
If I recall correctly, the bore is 7/8". I'll double check next time I get out to the shop.