Rebuilding TC5560

[Herman 5560]

Also got the slides to fit to the back rest cut and bent.

Problem was they could not do both bends so I had to weld a return flange to screw to back rest.

Seats base to backrest guides.jpg (93.28 KiB) Viewed 6694 times

And they fit my original back rest.

Seats base to backrest guides painted.jpg (62.47 KiB) Viewed 6694 times

[Herman 5560]

Also been working on the new seat basses.

Started last week end to wet the thin ply and putting pressure on it a turn a day.

the green rag is kept wet to make the ply bend.

And the completed base.

[SteveW]

Hi Herman,

As requested, the attached are pictures of the bonnet latch plates with dimensions. All four are the same size on my car. Note that these are not flat pieces, hence the side view as well. There is a bend about 40mm up from the bottom (the end with the bolt holes). This then bends back about half way up the square hole so that the top edge ends up in the same plane as the bottom edge - i.e. the two bends form a triangle. The apex of the triangle is about 3mm high when you lie the piece flat on the bench. (hopefully that makes sense!)

Steve

[Herman 5560]

A BIG thanks.

What is the material thickness? 2mm?

Now I understand why I could never get the front 2 to hook.

[Herman 5560]

Done.

Bonnet catch.JPG (17.89 KiB) Viewed 6691 times

[Herman 5560]

My 5c worth...rout your harness before anything else.

A 5 minute job turned into a 2 hour job with a lot of fruity language and skinless knuckles.

If you have to do it after brake pipes and fuel pipes are fitted at least do the harness to the front first.

Was tempted to rout these next to chassis frame, but glad I spent 1 hour doing it right. The end result is clean.

Wish I still had all those little clips to secure to the chassis all the way to the back but for now it will be zipped to the fuel rail.

[Herman 5560]

Made battery box cover catches.

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/pres ... post131566

[Steve Simmons]

You're doing great work! I'm surprised you weren't able to find some of these parts as spares.

[Herman 5560]

Very very few of them here in SA and the ones that are here are pampered and very expensive in Rands. So none are getting broken up.

That is why I bought this wreck.

With the Rand pound exchange and freight and import duty restoration is terribly expensive so I am making what I can. I enjoy it so no issue to me. You can recall the process I went trough to make my bull horn bracket.

I am saving for the things like the cables for start, idle and choke. I need a new headlight/ignition switch, the ignition light and so the list goes on.

So when it comes to a cover for the breakfluid bottle in the floor, I have to make it.

There is still the issue about a new master cylinder.

At least if I do sell it one day I will get my money back, the 3 x 7 style cars I built I almost had to give away to get rid of them so....

[SteveW]

A BIG thanks.

What is the material thickness? 2mm?

I knew that I'd forgotten to measure something. It's coming in at 2.8mm, so I guess that allowing for rust and paint, it would originally have been 12 swg metal (0.104" or 2.642mm).

[SteveW]

At least if I do sell it one day I will get my money back, the 3 x 7 style cars I built I almost had to give away to get rid of them so....

The price of 7 style cars always surprises me. It's the same here in the UK. You could buy a kit of parts and assemble them very well, but if you tried to sell the finished car you would get less than you paid for the parts.

[Herman 5560]

Been slaving away quietly, but stuck now again.

Remaking the seat backrest, but the brackets confuses me. Is the pipe with its triangularly shaped feet one bracket and the 2 rectangular with sliders another 2 brackets or are they all in one. Mine is one thing with no rectangular footed mounts. See the RED lines in the picture. I can see the witness marks pressed into the material.

Seems like a huge fabrication again.

Is the pipe supposed to be chrome or painted black?

[Steve Simmons]

The tonneau bar is black. The sliders are supposed to be on a separate bracket so someone has customized yours. The slider bracket mounts below the tonneau bar. See attached photo.

[Herman 5560]

South Africa in lock down, so time to do a few things to the TC.

I want to fit the rear fenders.

Mine was fitted with bolts ad nuts through the wheel arches.......Is this correct as I also found some holes that line up with the wooden screws securing the tub to its frame.

What is the easiest way to fit the piping?Glue it to the tub or push it in once the fender is fitted by slotting it where the screws are.

[Warmuthb]

I glue it to the tub. Makes it easier to get the reliefs cut for the mounting bits. Just make sure to snug up the bead to the tub.
Brian

[Herman 5560]

Are the fenders attached to the tub using wood screws?

How many ? and approximate size please.

[Herman 5560]

TT_BP116_Rear_Wing_to_Tub_Fastener_Locations.pdf

(403.28 KiB) Downloaded 240 times

So I found this..

8 x screws #10 x 1.24"
Would this be wood screws or self tappers?

What is the feeling on fitting 5mm rivnuts. Not even the purists will be able to spot it and the flanges of the rivnuts will be taken up by the piping.

Any quick answer as to how much "Body" piping one needs for a car?
Piping should be the same colour as the car and not same colour as the seats?

Found this site very usefull.
http://ttypes.org/ttt2/fitting-a-rear-wing-on-the-mg-ta

[Herman 5560]

The RED circles are holes already in my fenders.

The YELLOW arrows is where holes are suppose to be.

And in the green circle the best ever Christmas cracker present I ever got. Flexible tape with metric and imperial.

[Herman 5560]

Well, I did it. the wood was so worn out where the old holes in the fender was that I simply open up the 6mm holes to 7 mm and fitted rivnuts.

Look away now purists....

The nice thing is taking on and taking off does not further wear and strip the holes in the wood..

Nice thing is, if you are working alone like me, you can easily now turn a piece of threaded rod into the top hole and use that as a guide to fit the fender.

it is important to remember your fastening sequence because what I found that if you if you change it the fender shape changes and the holes stop lining up.

This is just the test fit, but I must say working with cap screws on an electric screwdriver makes the job a whole lot easier.

Will change out for slotted screws later to disguise my crime.

Keep healthy.

[Steve Simmons]

Not an unreasonable modification. NIce job.