Handbrake Cross Shaft on TC

[steve c]

Hi All,
Does someone know whether the fittings on the cross tube are secured with taper pins or rivets and what diameter are they?
The collar by the ratchet mount on T0894 has a fixing which is flush with the collar outer diameter but it has what appears to be a screwdriver slot in it although heating and attempts to unscrew have failed?
I'll await any wisdom before any drilling commences.
Many thanks.

Best regards

[Mark Robinson]

Steve

There's an excellent article by John Libbert describing the rebuilding of the handbrake assembly in the April 2012 issue of Totally T Type 2. The collar you refer to is screwed into the shaft. Simply select the issue from the dropdown box.

http://ttypes.org/ttt2/index.php

Regards
Mark
TC4157

[Max Irvine]

The collar next to the pawl does have a grub-screw in it. Try soaking it with WD-40 for a week or so. The only reason I can think that this is a screw fitting is so the collar can be moved aside to allow the bush to be greased, doesn't really make sense though, a grease nipple would be better.

All the other fittings have parallel pins in them. I used a pin punch to get mine out. I disassembled it to chrome plate the handle. I also managed to procure a new shaft and fitted a new bush as well.
A second assembly I have was sent to the platers in one piece and they managed to just chrome the handle. The bush has not been replaced. The handle moves side to side about half an inch whereas the reconditioned one has hardly any play.
I think they will both work just fine

Regards,
Max Irvine
TC 9375
TC4418

[steve c]

Thanks for the useful information. I can now tackle the job with precision and not butchery.

Regards,

Steve C.

[John Libbert]

Mark,

Thanks for the kind words about the article in TTT2.

The pins in the lever arms on my cross shaft were tapered. I don't recall the size and I'm not sure if I mentioned a size in the article. The grub screw is also tapered and since I had a new shaft I ended up using a straight tap and Loctite on the screw threads. I'm not sure if this is the way it came from the factory, but it's what I had when I measured mine.

Best regards,

John

[Charles]

I believe that the chrome handbrake lever cannot be removed from the rest of the unit for chroming .
I seek to remove the chrome tube of the handbrake to replace it with another. It seems to be welded into place.
A How can the tube be removed ?
1 Cut carefully with a hacksaw or grinder.
2 Remove any fixing screws or pins
3 Any other solution.

B If I remove it by cutting can the new one be brazed into position ?
I have a spare brake unit and a chromed brass bathroom fitting of the required internal and external size. (see photo )

Would love to get some feedback

Charles

[Ray White]

If anyone wants to do a temporary - but very cheap - improvement to their handbrake lever shaft - assuming top is O.K. - then surprisingly good results can be achieved by covering it in a "chrome" wrap. For just £5 this is obviously not as good as proper chrome plating... but so long as the surface is completely smooth it actually looks good. As I say, a temporary solution.

[stephen stierman]

You can purchase a chrome tube that simply slides over the old one and nobody will know the difference. Joe Curto used to offer these and they work just fine.

[Ray White]

You can purchase a chrome tube that simply slides over the old one and nobody will know the difference. Joe Curto used to offer these and they work just fine.

That sounds even better!!

I wonder if they are available here in the U.K.?

Probably not.

Ray.

[jddevel]

What perhaps is needed is one from a scrap item so that an experiment on removing the outer tube, understanding what`s inside and devising a method of re-fixing. Instead of grinding off would suggest a pipe cutter may be the way to go. Just some thoughts.

[jddevel]

Ray, perhaps chrome covered copper plumbing pipe may do? On the other hand if a suitable I,D. copper pipe is available then getting it chromed may also be another idea.

[Charles]

Thank you all for your responses. If I replace the tube with the bath rod it feels solid brass and robust. The other tube in the photo is thinner walled will indeed slip over the existing but I will then need to make and chrome a new top button. Not a problem but for both options I still I think I need to braze the tube at its base to stop it sliding, rising and falling with the button.
What is against cutting off (or removing if possible) the old tube and brazing on the new one ?
Any wise advice is welcome.

[jddevel]

Not that you should ever need to chrome again what ever method you use however is there anyway a method of fixing could be found without brazing. even threading in someway?

[Steve Simmons]

Considering the leverage on the rod, I would definitely use steel to avoid bending it. That said, a chrome shop should be able to chrome just the lever by not submerging the entire piece. I've had this done on vintage bicycle frames in the past. The easiest solution is definitely the chrome sleeve. I believe Bob Grunau makes them. They're also sold at FTFU.

[Ray White]

Ray, perhaps chrome covered copper plumbing pipe may do? On the other hand if a suitable I,D. copper pipe is available then getting it chromed may also be another idea.

Good idea. Copper tube is 15mm. Without measuring the lever I don't know if it will it go over?

[jddevel]

When I experimented with chroming if my memory serves me correctly any area that wasn`t to be chromed could be treated with an acetate -for example, for the DIY person, nail varnish.

[stephen stierman]

The Frame up lists the kit..........

https://fromtheframeup.com/collections/ ... repair-kit