Bonnet (hood) Fitting

[Herman 5560]

Thanks Tom for that remarkable piece of historic info. I work at a big car factory and it always amazes me how they builts cars before robots, PLCs and conveyors.

[SteveW]

Thanks for all the replies guys - a good discussion that shows the value of this forum. Picking up the various points

i) Duncan, the edge of my lower bonnet section is a straight edge, not a slight curve. I don't know if this is natural variation from the factory or an indication that someone else has cut it post production. It's a very neat edge so I assume that it was done in the factory

ii) Mark McC- the wood that supports the upper bonnet can be lowered to make the hinge line match the scuttle edge, but then the shut line across the top of the bonnet would be too low

iii) Mark S - It's good to know that I'm not the only one that has faced the issue of the scuttle sides being too long. I've seen a few pictures on line where they are like that as well so maybe evidence of some sub-standard factory work?

iv) Tom - that is a good historical perspective. This reinforces my view that my bonnet is from a different car and therefore cut slightly differently to match a different tub.

Overall then the plan is to modify the scuttle edge and to weld a tapered strip of metal onto the trailing edge of the lower bonnet to bring it into line with the tub (which I have measured about 20 times and is correct!).

However, in doing all of this, I have noticed that my chrome radiator shell has been badly restored by the previous owner. I'm therefore after another one and have placed a wanted add in the other section.

In looking for another, are the TC shells unique or are the TA or TB shells the same?

Steve

[timberstone]

The radiator "shell" or "surround" is the same for the TA TB TC and TD regarding overall fit.
There are inconsequential differences for connections to the grill slats.
Some strengthening of the lower crank hole is present in the TD, and those shells might be more available.
We have a TD shell which is being used for a TC project, so wish you luck.
These come up on eBay but can be various quality and prices.
Below is a photo of the TC "shell" or "surround" which shows the open bottom crank hole that is reinforced in the TD shell

Here is what it should look like when installed

IMG_0122.JPG (99.39 KiB) Viewed 1810 times

Octagonally Yours, BOXLEY (Robert and MGTC0820)

[Mark McCombs]

Steve, something to offer before you break out the cutting wheel:
I have been reconstructing the tub of TC8126 for many years and an nearly done at this point. As I have learned and been shown, there are many factors that, once done, will affect other factors...The TC is really a 'car of compromise'. You may want to lower the bonnet rest wood, then set (not install) the bonnet rest rubber in place to see where the bonnet seam to scuttle bottom lines up, then see where the top of the bonnet is in comparison to the fit with the scuttle top. Is the scuttle fitting all the way down on the wood, especially at the front? Also, look at finished cars at that top of the bonnet to front of the scuttle fit...That rubber rest is an error adjuster, and I may be wrong but it seems like the rear of the bonnet sits a bit lower, even on the rubber, than an exact, same plane as the front top of the scuttle.

[Duncan M]

This is what Mark and myself have mentioned about the arched line that was originally present in all TC's at the back of the folding bonnet. At top and bottom on mine is about 3/16". Front line at radiator is straight. Very doubtful this rear line was cut to fit each car on the line with big shears.

[SteveW]

That's interesting Duncan. The edge of the tub that it mates against is defintely supposed to be straight, so it must be the rubber that is used to take up the difference. Looking at the rubber that I have, 3/16" (4.5mm) is right on the limit of what the rubber can be adjusted to without the trailing edge of the rubber no longer overlapping with the tub. I guess that when I weld my new bit of metal onto the side bonnet I can profile it into a curve to reproduce what the factory did. I may limit it to 2.5mm though to make sure that there is sufficient overlap between the rubber and the tub. It's actually easier to make a curve that a perfectly straight edge.