TC front hub query

[SteveT]

Hi, refitted both hubs on my TC after switching the stub axles back to the correct sides, all straightforward and the bearings and seals look new. However, despite doing the n/s hub nut up to the correct torque, I cant lose the play in it. I've fitted the spacer and everything else in the right order.. possibly too much clearance in the bearing itself?

[Steve Simmons]

Hi Steve, do you have original ball bearings or have you converted to tapered bearings? The original ball bearings always have a little bit of play. If the bearing design allows it, you can reduce it a tiny bit by adjusting the spacer length. I don't recall which bearing designations allow this to be done safely but I'm sure a bearing supplier has the info. You can buy bearings that have less play than others but I don't recall those designations either. I've been told that most of the original style bearings being sold these days are not as tight as the originals. The bottom line is, so long as the bearing isn't worn then there is nothing to worry about if there is a bit of play, within reason.

If you have converted to tapered bearings, you need a longer spacer and a set of shims to carefully adjust the play in the bearings until you achieve .002-.004" end play. This is best adjusted with the bearings clean and dry.

With either type of bearing, the nut must of course be fully torqued to achieve maximum strength of the assembly. On original spindles this is approximately 60 lbs/ft and then to the nearest split pin hole which should be achievable within a few pounds of that. If you have new spindles with the oversized thread, torque to 120 lbs/ft.

[SteveT]

Thanks Steve, no I'm still on original style bearings. I'll run as is for a while, the O/S has no play at all and look to be the same bearing make, I'm probably nearer 70lbft as I'm never lucky enough to get split pin holes to line up. They are smooth enough though and the car steers and handles fine after putting it all back together. I did find the steering wheel a spline or two out though after fitting the new drop arm, I lined up the scored lines ok so assume it may have been out a bit previously. Thanks.

[Eric Worpe]

Hi Steve, One possible explanation is that the internal shoulder that locates the outer ball races in the wheel hub is worn, so it is slightly shorter than the spindle's spacer. This would allow some end float of the hub along the spindle which could give the impression of play in the bearing. Is this the case?
Regards, Eric.

[SteveT]

Well you may have been right Eric, in the end I fitted a new hub, spacer, and both bearings. The bearings were a good fit on the spindle so it really didn't leave anything else. Play now gone so job done. Thanks.

Oh and one tip.. I marked the end of the spindle with a marker pen to show where the split pin hole was, made it much easier to align the right spot for the nut!