Floorboards

[Steve Simmons]

I've removed the floorboards in TC8975 to address unrelated issues. Now that they are out, I notice that they were never coated with anything and the underside is covered in road grime and oil. Otherwise they are in good order. So the question becomes...

A) Re-use or replace?
B) If replace, buy them or make my own? Moss charges $225 and Abingdon charges $180 per pair.
C) If re-use, do I try to coat them in something despite all the oil and grime they have soaked up on the underside? Or leave them as they are and hope they don't rot out?

Also when re-mounting them, are people putting anything between frame and floorboards? The previous owner put silicon sealer around all four sides, which actually made it difficult to get them out. I had to dig it all out of the joints before the floorboards would move. I was thinking of smearing some on the rails to keep moisture away from the wood/metal mating surfaces and to prevent squeaks.

Last, how structural are the floorboards really? I know floorboards are help to reduce chassis flex / twist, but the securing screws on TCs are fairly small so I'm not sure they are doing all that much.

[Stan Teitge]

I made my own and treated them with preservative. The originals were likely multi layered Baltic Birch or similar.
Very strong compared to most north American plywood. The ply will likely not rot if left to dry and there is no moisture trapped under the carpets or such. Just my opinion as a wood worker.

Stan Teitge TC 6680

[olson_gene]

Last, how structural are the floorboards really? I know floorboards are help to reduce chassis flex / twist, but the securing screws on TCs are fairly small so I'm not sure they are doing all that much.

Chassis flex in a TC? you must be joking, the chassis is solid as a rock. the doors pop open because of the auto open feature. the alarming movement of the doors in reference to the scuttle is part of the automatic weight distribution program. You think plywood 12 inches wide will interfere with the chassis wiggling over bumps.

I don't think you will notice any difference with floorboards screwed down or just laying in place.

[Steve Simmons]

True, I try to keep my fingers away from the door jams while driving. My fingertips fit in the gap when at a stop, and the gap closes about halfway on a bumpy road. Every little bit helps!

The car actually used to be MUCH more solid than it is now, but I've put a lot of miles on it (not always on paved roads) without tightening the hardware. So now with two big trips on the horizon, I'm going through the car from stem to stern.

[dirk w dondorp]

Hi, I covered the underneath with aluminium ribbed plate where the exaust runs.
Rest, as per Stan's advice, just wood preserve.
Dir

[stephen stierman]

If the floors you have are in good shape, clean 'em up a bit and give them a coat of black Rustoleum or whatever, same with the rails they sit on. Do not use sealant between the wood and the chassis. TC's leak in the rain, if you get water inside it should be able to drain out rather than sitting in the interior, old Morgan trick.

[Steve Simmons]

Thanks all. After closer inspection, my floorboards are cheap, thin plywood. I can bend them by hand. I think I'l just do it right and buy new. Any suggestions on where to shop? Moss carries them although their price
is higher than others I've seen. Perhaps the quality warrants the price?

[Norman Tuck]

I just cut new ones out of 1/2" or 3/8" MARINE plywood, and painted them with black rustolium. I used a jug saw and traced the old ones as a pattern. I rounded over the edges with a router. It was pretty quick and easy and the marine plywood may be better than what Moss supplies.

[dirk w dondorp]

so did I and the waterproof Marine Plywood is the best! Cutting them out also easy!
Good Luck
Dirk

[stephen stierman]

Did the same thing, got some nice birch plywood at Lowe's and zipped them out, treated with oil base paint and they will outlast me. Did the fuel tank backer that way also.