TC Tub build-up
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
TC Tub build-up
Hi everyone. I got my TC as an abandoned project so am still trying to work out where everything goes. The tub was partially built and I am working on the rear wheel arches. The metal skin of the side panel storage box is only folded round the wood, should this be screwed and or nailed as well? There is a small gap where the irons join the tub at the rear, I have made a patch to go in here but is that correct? I have made the new door post metalwork that attaches to the front of the wheel arch but does this bolt, rivet or weld to the arch? Finally (for now) does anyone have the correct spec for the bolts holding the rear wheel arches to the body as I can find it anywhere? Thanks in advance and sorry about what you all my find as simple questions but I have not had the benefit of stripping the car where you discover all its quirks! Cheers. Tim.
Re: TC Tub build-up
TCs forever by Mike Sherrell. Not cheap but worth every cent if you are going to restore a TC. Especially when your taking over a previous start.
Bob
Bob
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks Bob, I have put it on my Christmas list so finger crossed!
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:18 am
Re: TC Tub build-up
Congratulations on your TC. I have just gone through a long saga in rebuilding the tub on my TC after a few false starts including buying a new tub from a well known British supplier that proved to be unusable.
The wheel arch to body iron bolts are 1/4" BSW countersunk slotted head screws x 3/4" long. The wheel arches are nailed to the body timbers around the wheel opening and then the quarter panel is nailed through the wheel arch and then into the same body timbers.
I had the same query about the small gap between the sidescreen box and the body iron. I couldn't find mention of it in Mike's book but I decided to make a small plywood piece as a filler. the hole can't be seen once the trim is in place but I wanted to stop dirt and dust.
The wheel arch to body iron bolts are 1/4" BSW countersunk slotted head screws x 3/4" long. The wheel arches are nailed to the body timbers around the wheel opening and then the quarter panel is nailed through the wheel arch and then into the same body timbers.
I had the same query about the small gap between the sidescreen box and the body iron. I couldn't find mention of it in Mike's book but I decided to make a small plywood piece as a filler. the hole can't be seen once the trim is in place but I wanted to stop dirt and dust.
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:18 am
Re: TC Tub build-up
The metal piece rivets to the wheel arch as does the bulls horn cross brace. I put a flat washer over the rivet stems before they were flattened over, I think that is how they should be done.
Also the wheel arches should have a very roughly punched countersunk hole for the attaching screws. Do the wheel arches still have the brackets riveted on for the seat brackets?
Also the wheel arches should have a very roughly punched countersunk hole for the attaching screws. Do the wheel arches still have the brackets riveted on for the seat brackets?
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks Max. It make sense about the countersunk screws as the body irons appear to have been opened to accept this - I have temporary bolts in at present. Like you I have made a patch to keep dirt out of the gap area. I will rivet the bracket as you describe - I have what remains of an old bracket and under the rust it looks to be as you describe. The bull horn cross brace doesn't fit great with my new replacement arches - is that normal? I have massaged them to fit as good as possible. I seem to remember seeing the old seat brackets in one of my boxes of bits so will rivet them in place after working out exactly where they go and cleaning them up. Your help is very much appreciated! Cheers. Tim.
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- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:31 pm
- Location: Birmingham UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Hi Tim, I believe, although someone may correct me, that the gap between the bull horn and wheel arch is normal and allows room for the padding that goes under the wheel arch covering when you come to fit the interior upholstery and panels. But, as I said, I stand to be corrected but that is what I will do with the gap I have!
Cheers Ian
Cheers Ian
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks Ian - the gap is not excessive and I think the padding will take care of it. On to the second arch now and this seems to be fitting with slightly less effort - or am I just getting braver?
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Hi All. Still slogging away on my tub build-up and panelling. I know that felt was originally used under certain panels eg scuttle but this was obviously a water trap with the usual corrosion results - I am in the process of temporarily fitting the scuttle and bonnet to get the line right for the front quarter panels and would like thoughts on what is best to use in place of felt when installing for real. Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers. Tim.
- stephen stierman
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:12 pm
- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: TC Tub build-up
Forget felt! I laid in a bead of water proof caulk wherever I did not want water or dampness coming in, between the timbers and the sheet metal, etc. If you feel the need for something more substantial, close cell insulation that will not absorb moisture and stay wet.
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks Stephen - I just want to remove any flutter or vibration between panels and wood so I think a few well placed patches of insulation should do the job - I have some close cell type available so that's the plan. I have some deep pitting on the front edge of the scuttle,do you think lead is the best way to repair as I have used lead for levelling on door patch repairs to good effect? I am reluctant to cut out and put in new metal as I risk losing the shape. Damage around where the windscreen bolts thorough may need to be patched though.
- stephen stierman
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:12 pm
- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: TC Tub build-up
Those panels, when nailed properly are pretty darn strong and don't move around. I always run a bead of caulk around the edges prior to installing and nailing the panel to keep the damp out. If your panel has rusted to a very thin state, my preference would be to cut it out and butt weld in a new patch. I have used a bit of lead over the years but choose not to these days given the concerns about the stuff, now being an old guy. Frankly my little MIG welder and my semi decent welding ability with thin metal is preferred. A bit of work with a grinder and a skim of filler, I can make a pretty nice permanent repair. I had to let in new metal on both sides of the scuttle due to heavy rust through caused by the factory packing as well as make new front and rear quarters and replace the lower several inches of the door skins..
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- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks for the advice. When I say lead I mean the modern 'lead free lead'. I have repaired the doors in a similar manner to you by the sounds of it - from your picture I think I am heading in the right direction as my tub is starting to look a bit like yours (I have finished the inner wheel arches and made the rear quarter panels but not the front ones yet so nothing is permanently installed other than the arches) - I will post some pictures when I have something worth looking at! Thanks again.
Tim.
Tim.
- stephen stierman
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:12 pm
- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: TC Tub build-up
Time has passed me buy, lead free solder, a new item. I would want to clean the flux off well prior to paint or you might get to see it again when you don't mean to! My inner wheel arches required an inch or so of new metal be welded in as the packing or whatever was in there between the timber and the arch helped to corrode it all away after many years. Post photos, always good to see how others are doing.
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Hi All - another quick question regarding front quarter panels. Where these meet the rear inner wheel arch does the lip go under or over the wheel arch metal? I know that the rear quarter panel overlaps the front one but any pictures of the finish in this area would be appreciated i.e. is it just a simple overlap or does the upper seam double up in a bend up and where exactly does it meet, some pictures I have found are not clear if it is at the top part of the lower hinge? As I said before I don't have any original metal to work from so any advice would be welcome.
cheers
Tim
cheers
Tim
- cdrolshagen
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Soerup Germany
Re: TC Tub build-up
Hi Tim.
hope attached images answer your question.
If you open the Dropbox you can see a complete TC restauration.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2fz50nck8c9p ... O80Ma?dl=0
Carl
hope attached images answer your question.
If you open the Dropbox you can see a complete TC restauration.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2fz50nck8c9p ... O80Ma?dl=0
Carl
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- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks Carl - exactly what I needed. What a great job you did on your TC!
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
hopefully a simple one - does anyone have the actual size of the washers that fit under the bolts holding the firewall to the body - I mean the 16 that are visible holding the bonnet timber supports. I don't have the originals and from pictures they look quite large (what we would call repair washers in the UK). Cheers. Tim.
Re: TC Tub build-up
Hi Tim:
Mine are just at 1-1/16th inches in diameter (27mm), I believe them to be original. Washers as large as 1-1/8" (28.5MM) would work quite nicely as well.
Marv TC5141
Mine are just at 1-1/16th inches in diameter (27mm), I believe them to be original. Washers as large as 1-1/8" (28.5MM) would work quite nicely as well.
Marv TC5141
- timandgerda
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
Re: TC Tub build-up
Thanks for the quick answer Marv - onward and upward!