1949 TC gap between the running boards and rear wings.

[Douglas James Taylor]

Hi I am due to start a rebuild/restoration of a 1949 TC. Does anyone know what the gap should measure between the running boards and rear wings.

The reason I ask is that I also own a 1500 TF and there is no gap between the rear wings and the running boards.

Can anyone enlighten me?

Douglas

[Richard Michell]

Douglas, is there a reason that you ask this question? I am wondering because, in building up my TC from a bunch of (related) parts, I found that I had a gap of a couple of centimetres.

I understand that there should be "no" gap. I had to extend my boards. I will be interested in others replies.

[XPAGnut]

Yes there is a gap. Generally a different gap up against tub vs outboard. I have an early TC and you have a late one, so just a guideline. With tubular welting in-place, about 1/2 inch from rear of board to front of welt. Or about 3/4 inch with no welt. I imagine one reason for the gap is to allow rain and mud to drain off. Every one of these cars were a bit different, as they should be, when they left assembly. Don't expect port side to match up the same as starboard side, unless it has been over restored at some point.

[Douglas James Taylor]

Hi the reason I ask is that I have a 1955 MG TF and there is no gap at all.

I am awaiting the delivery of the TC from New York, so the restoration probably will not start until the winter sets in here in Scotland, in October. I am generally asking questions where I notice a difference, so I have all or most of the differences covered, before I start.

I have ordered the book TC's Forever so I hope this will help with specification and measurement issues.

The gap I have, looking at the photographs is about 15mm and it is equal on both sides of the car.

Any help or advice on this project would be appreciated.

Douglas

[SteveW]

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the project. There are a few of us on here doing frame up restorations so do a search if you have any specific questions and if nothing comes up, just ask. My experience has been that most people will go out of their way to provide you with an answer. I'm trying to post photos as I go. As for advice:

I) photograph absolutely everything as you take the car apart. Pay particular attention to screw and bolt positions and mating surfaces. Also (something that I wish that I had done), measure everything as well, particularly if you are going to rebuild the tub, so that you can reproduce the curves.

ii) don't throw anything away, even if you know its going to eventually end up as scrap. It will all provide valuable reference points and templates

iii) Treat each stage as a project in its own right. There is a huge amount of work involved in restoring one of these. Its satisfying, but you need to feel that you are making progress, so define a project and give yourself a pat on the back when you complete it (and post a picture on here!).

iv) Walk away when a day in the garage is not going well otherwise you'll do more harm that good. Sometimes the garage gods are just not on your side.

If you find a good solution to a problem then post it on here. If you have been stuck, the chances are that someone else will be as well.

Apologies if the above is teaching you to suck eggs

Steve

[Douglas James Taylor]

Hi Steve, any advice is good advice if taken with a good heart, many thanks.

I have restored, in fact it is only just finished, a MGTF 1500 which was shipped from Arizona May 2016, so I have a little experience working on these cars, however there are a few differences hence the questions.

I will probably become a nuisance with my questions, however you do not learn without asking them.

Many thanks again.

[Gene Gillam]

On the TC there is a definite gap and it will vary between cars.

According to page 215 of TC's Forever: "Running Board....The butted rear end is curved to match the rear wing front face but does not reach it, leaving a small gap"

[Douglas James Taylor]

Hi Gene, many thanks for your reply. I will certainly buy that book you recommend.

Douglas

[SteveW]

Hi the reason I ask is that I have a 1955 MG TF and there is no gap at all.

Any help or advice on this project would be appreciated.

Douglas

One specific bit of advice that I would give is regarding the rear axle. There are modifications available for both the differential pinion and hubs that are designed to keep the diff oil where it should be. There is a known problem on these cars where the diff oil leaks onto the rear brake drums, which is not good. Better to forsake originality on this occasion and have brakes that work.

Roger Furneaux in the UK can do the pinion mod and supply the new combined hub nut/oil seals.

[Douglas James Taylor]

Hi, and many thanks for the advice. I found Rogers website and will keep him in mind when the restoration starts.

Douglas

[Duncan M]

Seems to be quite variable, that gap. As mentioned above, I imagine it is there to allow drainage, and keep mud away from the door bottoms. By the TF, MG was more concerned with other practical maters like people wanting to step on the running board. Of course you are not to step on T-type running boards.

Odd, my rear hubs/axles are original with scroll's and there is no oil on rear brakes. Also have new pinion bearings and original scroll seal, and not only does it not leak now but it did not leak before-- past the diff pinion scroll seal.

[XPAGnut]

Curious what gap measure other people note on their stock TC?

[Steve Simmons]

I've made it a point to not measure my gap, nor even look at it. Last thing I need is another problem area to obsess about!

TC's Forever is a great book, as is the recent followup TC's Forever More.

[XPAGnut]

Steve, just get it over with; measure and report back so you can go to sleep tonight.