Recently I had the “opportunity” to rebuild the gearbox on TC 8230. Having absolutely no experience in this area I approached the job with some trepidation. The concept of a “black box” that some how converted the motion of the crankshaft into four forward and one reverse was a bit intimidating. But the alternative of spending a fair amount of money having someone do it for me, while I did not learn anything, was not very appealing. This is the first of two write ups, and covers a general overview of the internals of the gearbox. A second paper titled “Rebuilding The TC Gearbox” covers a step by step teardown and rebuild. |
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What’s Inside The Box? |
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When I first opened the gearbox, I was presented with a wonderful display of shafts, gears, wired nuts, and selector forks. I was also concerned regarding the number of parts packed into a tiny package. If I took it apart would I ever get it back together and in the correct alignment? I was mostly concerned about the selector forks and other parts attached to the sector shafts, the book said to mark these for correct reassembly alignment. Well I was pleased to find that the selector shafts were pre-drilled for the Lock Bolts (20) thus affording correct alignment when reassembled. In fact the entire gearbox is constructed (with only a few exceptions) using this methodology. |
Selector Shafts |
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With the Remote Control Unit removed, the first things you will see across the top are the selector shafts. With the front of the box away from you, on the left is the Reverse Selector Shaft (4), in the middle is Third / Fourth Gear Selector Shaft (2), and on the right the First / Second Gear Selector Shaft (1). This may seem backwards, but remember everything in the box works opposite to how you use the gear shift lever. When you are shifting into first gear the Selector Lever (38) is actually moving to the right and the rear pushing the first / second gear shaft backwards even though the shift lever is pushed to the left and forward. |
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Looking at the gearbox from the side (refer to the Moss illustration) starting at the front is the First Motion Shaft (56); it is connected to the crankshaft on the left and inserted in the other end is the front of the Main Shaft (50). The first motion shaft is held in place by a nut (64), the First Motion Shaft Bearing (58) and a series of Needle Bearings (57) where it comes in contact with the main shaft. This allows the first motion shaft to turn independently of the main shaft. At the right hand end of the first motion shaft you will see two gears. The helical gear is used to transfer motion to the Laygear (66) and the conical protrusions which are part of the fourth gear synchromesh mechanism. The shaft ends with a smooth cone shaped surface which is half of the metal clutch used by the synchromesh. |
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Moving down in the gearbox is the Layshaft (68). It is sometimes referred to as the Second Motion or Cluster Shaft. Mounted on this shaft is the Laygear (66). This set of gears turn freely on the layshaft using a series of Needle Bearings (67) and is held in place by the layshaft which extends through both ends of the gearbox casing. The layshaft is then locked into place by using a Lock Bolt (69). At either end of the layshaft are the Thrust Washers (73 & 74). The purpose of these washers is to limit movement along the axis of the shaft and to absorb the thrust loads caused by the helical gears working against each other. |
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Above the laygear is the Third Motion or Main Shaft (50). Mounted on this shaft are (from left to right) third / fourth gear Sliding Hub (76) along with the third / fourth gear Striking Dog (75); Third Gear (79); Second Gear (85); and finally the first / second gear Sliding Hub (91) with the combination second gear Striking Dog and First Gear (90). At this time you may ask “Where is fourth gear?” Well there is no fourth gear. Fourth is actually a one-to-one ratio and is achieved by locking the first motion shaft to the main shaft. |
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Note there is no built in alignment of the sliding hubs to the main shaft or the striking dogs to the sliding hubs. Before you remove these items it is wise to note their alignments to each other by using a permanent marker or a file. At the far end of the main shaft is the Rear Flange (104). It is connected to the main shaft using splines and is held in place with a Castellated Nut (106) and a cotter pin. The rear flange is attached to the drive shaft, but also serves to drive the Speedometer Pinion (107). |
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Finally there is the Reverse Gear (95). It is mounted on its own shaft (96) and is free to spin on the shaft as well as
travel forwards and backwards. When not in use it is stored in a “pocket” within the rear Cover Plate (112). The Reverse
Selector (11) attaches to the Reverse Link (14) which is attached to the Reverse Fork (7). The reverse fork sits in the
deep groove on reverse gear and slides forwards and backwards on the Reverse Fork Selector Shaft (3).
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What is synchromesh? Well simply it is the ability to synchronize two spinning objects to match speeds. In the case of the gearbox, it involves either second or third gear and the main shaft, or the first motion shaft and the main shaft to create fourth gear. This is accomplished through the use of metal to metal cone clutches built into the sliding hubs and the associated gears and/or shafts. |
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After going through the entire rebuild, breaking down all the parts I came to the realization that this gearbox is not all that complicated. Yes, there are a lot of parts in a tiny space, but it is a very due able project for even an amateur mechanic such as myself. But, understanding how it works was half the battle. |